Recycling Fabrics

Although the majority of textile waste originates from household sources, waste textiles also arise during yarn and fabric manufacture, garment-making processes and from the retail industry.  These are termed post-industrial waste, as opposed to the post-consumer waste which goes to jumble sales and charity shops. Together they provide a vast potential for recovery and recycling.

Recovery and recycling provide both environmental and economic benefits.  Textile recovery:
  • Reduces the need for landfill space. Textiles present particular problems in landfill as synthetic (man-made fibres) products will not decompose, while woollen garments do decompose and produce methane, which contributes to global warming.
  • Reduces pressure on virgin resources.
  • Aids the balance of payments as we import fewer materials for our needs.
  • Results in less pollution and energy savings, as fibres do not have to be transported from abroad.
  • Reclaiming fibre avoids many of the polluting and energy intensive processes needed to make textiles from virgin materials, including: -
  • Savings on energy consumption when processing, as items do not need to be re-dyed or scoured.
  • Less effluent, as unlike raw wool, it does not have to be thoroughly washed using large volumes of water.
  • Reduction of demand for dyes and fixing agents and the problems caused by their use and manufacture.
Source : http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21130258/resources/InformationSheets/Textiles.htm
This article is useful as it shows a wide variety of ways to help the public recycle their old or unwanted garments and shows how it is good for the environment. It also breaks down the benefits of recycled fibres and fabrics.

Bangladesh Factory Safety Deal

After the huge disaster of the garment factory collapse in Bangladesh in April, Labour Behind the Label as well as many other companies have gone about setting up a contract for the health and safety standards in these factories; 

A powerful alliance with leading unions IndustriALL Global Union and UNI Global Union, the Clean Clothes Campaign and Worker Rights Consortium, supported by campaigns run by, among others, Avvaz, War on Want, Change.org and People and Planet have changed the rules of the game for workers in Bangladesh.

We welcome the decision of those companies who have signed up to the Accord and commend them for acting responsibly in the aftermath of the Rana Plaza tragedy. Forty-eight hours ago H&M started the ball rolling and we now have most major global household brands on board.

As the countdown ended the following companies have signed on: H&M, Inditex, C&A, PVH, Tchibo, Tesco, Marks & Spencer, Primark, El Corte Inglés, Hess Natur, jbc, Mango, Carrefour, KiK, Helly Hansen, G-Star, Aldi, New Look, Next, Mothercare, Loblaws, Sainsbury’s, Benetton, N Brown Group, Stockmann,  WE Group, Esprit, Rewe, Lidl, Switcher and Abercrombie&Fitch.

Source : http://www.labourbehindthelabel.org/news/item/1152-bangladesh-accord-signed

Factory Initiatives

Social Audits
Where inspectors travel to factories to assess the conditions of the factory against a code of conduct. Inspectors will look at wage sheets, timekeeping, personnel records, check health and safety problems, watch the working at work, and conduct interviews with managers and workers. Social Audits can take days, or a few hours. Social audits are not entirely reliable however as some suppliers and factories will hide and cover up any aspects that may fail them the inspection, for example giving underage workers the day off, protecting themselves from child labour laws. Workers may be train to say 'the right things' to the inspectors in interviews, as admitted by a factory manager in North India, “We hold meetings with the workers, train them, before the audit. We tell them what may be asked and what should be answered”
Source: http://www.labourbehindthelabel.org/campaigns/itemlist/category/220-clean-up-fashion



WAGES AND WORKERS RIGHTS

Hourly wages in garment factories around the world are often less than 50p. In Bangladesh, where 80% of the economy depends on the fashion industry, the minimum wage now stands at £7.16 a month (2006). That’s 2.5 times less than its value of £18 in 1994, while the price of essential commodities- like rice, sugar, cooking oil and water – has risen by 200 per cent…(making it) virtually impossible for workers to support their families. (Ethical Trading Initiative , 2006)


With the majority of garment manufacture concentrated in some of the poorest parts of the world, the fashion industry represents an enormous opportunity to create sustainable livelihoods and to lift communities out of poverty. However, very little of the value of the industry is currently transferred to those who need it most. Poverty wages, unfair and unsafe conditions for garment workers continue to be widespread.
“We work from 8 am till noon, then have our lunch break. After lunch we work from 1 to 5 pm. We do overtime every day, from 5.30 pm. During the peak season, we work until 2 or 3 am. Although exhausted, we have no choice. We cannot refuse overtime: our basic wage is too low. If we want to rest, our employer forces us to keep working”. Phan, a 22-year-old machinist in a Thai garment factory.
It is estimated that the average percentage of the final retail cost of a garment made in the developing world, which goes to the garment worker, ranges from 0.5- 4%.
SOURCE: http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/the-issues/wages-workers-rights
It is important to understand how bad situations are in the factories in some parts of the world in order to create a better future for the factory workers and to put an end to to fast-fashion - paying cheap prices for cheap products that are 'fashionable', as opposed to necessary purchases or quality clothes. I hope to create a range for F&F that will be long-lasting, and high quality for a low price suitable to most budgets.

SAVAR BUILDING COLLAPSE


On 24 April 2013, an eight-story commercial building, Rana Plaza, collapsed in Savar, a sub-district in the Greater Dhaka Area, the capital of Bangladesh. The search for the dead ended on 13 May with the death toll of 1,127. Approximately 2,500 injured people were rescued from the building alive.
It is considered to be the deadliest garment-factory accident in history, as well as the deadliest accidental structural failure in modern human history.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2013_Savar_building_collapse
SOURCE : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Dhaka_Savar_Building_Collapse.jpg

This is incredibly important to note as this is the most recent catastrophe in the garment industry, and F&F and Tesco were using this factory to produce clothing. I plan to create my range of swim and beachwear in Tesco, using more ethical factories, supplying health and safety standards that meet those of the requirements, where workers have rights and correct wages, as outlined in the Ethical Trading Initiative Base Code.

FROM SOMEWHERE X TESCO




TESCO are the company that I am producing my product range for, so it was interesting to find that From Somewhere, one of the most important ethical fashion companies in the world have worked with Tesco before, creating a range of evening dresses from old damaged stock, end of roll fabrics and Tesco's own pre-consumer waste in a green factory in Sri Lanka that uses 60% less water than standard clothing factories.
Source : http://www.ecouterre.com/tesco-launches-recycled-clothing-line-with-from-somewhere/

Looking at the brand From Somewhere is useful to my project as they recycle scraps of fabrics and end of roll fabrics and use those to create exciting fashion pieces using ethical practices in manufacturing the products. This is key to my range as I am looking at this technique by reusing old polyester fabrics to create my range for F&F. 

SPEEDO X FROM SOMEWHERE




A preview of an exciting new collaboration between Speedo, the world’s leading swimwear brand, and award winning sustainable fashion label, From Somewhere, was revealed at Estethica the British Fashion Council’s ethical fashion area at London Fashion Week.
The ‘From Somewhere with Speedo’ collaboration forms part of a series of creative art and design projects commissioned by Speedo created from unsold stock and surplus pieces of the revolutionary Speedo LZR Racer suit. The limited edition capsule collection that is still in development, comprises a statement dress constructed purely of Speedo LZR Racer suits that will be auctioned for charity.
Award winning designer Orsola de Castro and Filippo Ricci, Directors of Ethical Fashion label From Somewhere recycles and rethinks the fashion industry’s waste turning textile surplus into beautiful clothes that take into account the balance between consumption and disposal. From Somewhere’s collections are made with luxury designer pre-consumer waste such as proofs, swatches, production off-cuts and end of rolls and in this case unsold and surplus Speedo and Speedo LZR Racer stock.
Filippo Ricci and Orsola de Castro, said: ‘From Somewhere is incredibly excited about collaborating with Speedo, as the high-tech fabrics allow for our creativity to run wild. The collection is design led and directional as well as having a considerable environmental impact. We look forward to digging deeper both into our creative resources and into Speedo’s excess stock!’

SOURCE : http://www.ecochicmagazine.co.uk/sustainabilty/from-somewhere-with-speedo-collaboration


BOTTLES TO BIKINIS

I was interested to learn actually how plastics such as bottles and carrier bags can be turned into fabrics, and found a gardening website that describes how the process is done to create their gardening gloves.

Step 1. 
Empty plastic beverage bottles are collected, sorted, crushed & baled at a recycling center. Then ground into flakes, & screened and washed to remove caps, labels & contaminants.


Step 2.

The flakes are heated, further screened and cleaned, dried and placed in a vented extruder. The extruded plastic is cooled and then thoroughly chopped to make plastic pellets.

Step 3.

The pellets are sent to a yarn manufacturing facility where they are melted & spun into polyester fiber. The recycled PET fibers are blended with new PET fibers and spun into polyester yarn.

Step 4.

The polyester yarn is sent to a mill for knitting or weaving into fabric. 
Source : http://www.westcountygardener.com/recycled.php

For the use of swimwear, the fibres from the plastics will have to be blended with other materials to give them stretch. An example of a fibre it could be blended with is nylon, which is readily used for swimwear, and can also be recycled.

REPREVE: FABRIC FOCUS

Source: http://www.repreve.com/WhatsInIt/WhatsInIt.aspx

REPREVE is a recycled fibre, containing recycled materials such as plastic bottles. It is made by combining post-consumer waste (used plastic bottles) and post-industrial waste such as fabrics that would otherwise be, such as scraps. The fabric is of a high quality, that looks good, feels soft and is comfortable, while remaining 100% sustainable.


Source: http://www.repreve.com/RecycleMore/RecycleMore.aspx
EcoSwim by Aqua Green work alongside Repreve to create swimwear made from sustainable nylon. Repreve can also be used in activewear such as yoga clothing, outdoor wear such as fleeces and macs and plastic shopping bags.
EcoSwim's brand values are to create sustainable beachwear to help fashion-lovers "reduce their carbon footprint in the sand"
"Eco Swim by Aqua Green is where sustainability meets cutting edge design in the swim industry. We strive to provide fashionable, excellent quality, and planet-friendly swimwear, therefore reducing our carbon footprint in the sand. We’ve come a long way, and with every sunrise we try harder."
Source: http://www.ecoswim.com

What makes Eco Swim different from other brands?
Eco Swim by Aqua Green is committed to developing eco-friendly swimsuits using innovative technology during the entire process from sourcing raw materials, to manufacturing, to the tags we use on our suits.
What are your suits made from?
All Eco Swim products are made from recycled materials such as water bottles, fishing nets, and plastic bags, in an energy efficient process. Our woven labels are made from recycled polyester, and our linings are made from recycled fabric derived from post consumer waste. All of our fabrics are made from recycled nylon, polyester, and cotton. Even our bra cups are made from Eco Cell foam, a biodegradable material made from plant oils and recycled materials, eliminating the petroleum oil based foams of the polluted past.
Source: http://www.ecoswim.com/faq

EcoSwim also encourage customers to "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle" their swimsuits and packaging, giving ideas to how they could be useful. 
EcoSwim have a huge list of what they do to "drive change" for the future; viewable here



Powered by Blogger.